The Old City of Jerusalem...a complicated place

After a rather adventurous journey from Haifa to our convent guesthouse in Jerusalem, my friend Mirela and I set out to explore the Old City. Between Fri and Sat, we covered nearly all of it on foot...the picturesque rooftops, the Via Dolorosa (supposedly the steps of Christ to his crucifixion),  the crowded, steep alleys filled with shops, and even the cavernous ruins beneath our guesthouse (where I felt a bit like Indiana Jones).

The Old City is definitely impossible to summarize even close to adequately, but one of my main takeaways was the complexity of the diversity within the walls of the Old City. There are mosques, churches, and synagogues all crammed in next to each other, and you see adherents to all different sects of Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. Walking down a short street, you can run into a Hasidic Jewish family, Muslim teens, a group of Catholic pilgrims, and a Greek Orthodox priest all within about sixty seconds. It's really an incredible place for observing people, except you really can't stand still and do that. If you pause for even a second, a nearby shopkeeper will start beckoning with some variation of the following script: "Lady! Hello.Where are you from? You need directions? Where are you going? I have a shortcut through my shop. Come look! Special discount for you today. One hundred percent off for ladies." My tried-and-true method was to just keep walking and pretend I couldn't understand.

We watched people gather at the Western Wall as Shabbat began...so interesting to see the square go from fairly empty to jam-packed, and observe how differently various groups and individuals conducted themselves. Some were rocking and praying silently, while others sang and danced in circles. I felt zero spiritual significance while at the Wall, except sadness that those who are so strictly observant of religious traditions don't know the Messiah. And while I was walking along the steps of Christ, I didn't feel any connection other than a new appreciation for how long and uphill the journey was. It's difficult to attach any meaning to a place when it doesn't look the way it would have thousands of years ago. Most disturbing for me was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which covers the area historians think was Golgotha and Christ's tomb - it's so ornate and filled with tourists, absolutely nothing like it would have been back in the day of Christ's death and resurrection. All the nearby shops were crammed with religious trinkets and icons, which made me just want to get away from the commercialism.

The most spiritual moment I experienced in Jerusalem was when we were walking along the city walls and heard some singing. We looked down into a square below us and saw a group of British teens belting out Hebrew worship songs as Shabbat came to an end, then their leader told them a parable and they continued singing with their arms around one another. This was a moment when I did stop literally stop in my tracks and just absorb the moment...the voices raised in unison were so captivating. They don't know the Messiah now, but I pray that one day they will sing to Him.

A Full Day

Today we took a daytrip to the Carmel region near our university - so much packed into one day! We started out the day  Zichron Ya'akov, one of the first areas to be settled by Romanian Jewish immigrants during the First Aliyah ("return to the land") in 1883. The area is now home to Carmel Winery, Israel's largest winery. A Scottish tour guide led our winery tour (great accent!). She not only told us about winemaking process, but also led us through a tasting of five wines. I learned so much! Had no idea that white wine could be made from white, red, or black grapes.

Next we went to a Carmelite Monastery near the location where the prophet Elijah was believed to have had the showdown with the prophets of Baal (1 Kings 18). From there we could overlook the Valley of Jezreel, and in the distance we could see Mount Tabor, where Deborah led the Israelites to victory over Sisera (Judges 4). I always loved that story (Yay for strong women! But boo for guys who don't step it up.) Being here gives me a deeper appreciation for biblical stories I've heard for so many years. So cool!

We also went to a Druze village to learn about their community and do a little shopping. They are an ethnic group with a secretive religion. Some of the Druze are secular and some are religious, and most of their elders today are women. One thousand years ago they "closed" - meaning no one can convert and join their community. They are very discouraged from marrying anyone outside the Druze community or converting to another faith. I wonder how many of them have ever heard the gospel...pray for the Druze.

I also had an answer to prayer today. My research has been coming along very slowly, but our tour guide today happened to be an Orthodox Jewish woman who teaches gender and Jewish law at Bar-Ilan University. How perfect!! She invited me to join her community next Shabbat, and I can interview her and a bunch of other people over the next few weeks. I'm also hoping to interview a few people in Jerusalem, which is where I'm heading this weekend.

I might not have internet for a few days...so until next time...shalom!

Human Dignity of Victims

This morning, my Comparative Criminal Justice class had a lively discussion about whether or not victim impact evidence should be admitted at a sentencing hearing - in other words, should the court be allowed to hear testimony from the victim (or if he is no longer living, the victim's family) about the impact the crime has made? Some argue such testimony is highly prejudicial because it aims to evoke an emotional response and really has nothing to do with the crime itself or the criminal, while others argue it is important for the victim or loved one to share his experiences and have a voice in the proceedings.

It is often difficult for me to come to conclusions on many topics, yet today I actually surprised myself by going against my first instinct. I ended up defending and believing in a position opposite that which I originally started with. I do see validity in both perspectives, but what it comes down to for me is human dignity. By allowing victim impact evidence during the sentencing phase, we are basically asking the judge or jury to make a judgment about the victim's worth to society. Is it fair to give a murderer more time in jail because the person he randomly robbed was a teacher and mother of three children rather than a prostitute? I believe God created all human beings with value and dignity, and we should not judge someone more "worthy" because of what she has accomplished so far or who she is connected to. We all are made in God's image and have potential, whether the world currently considers us "valuable" or not. Moreover, the court's job is not to determine the worth of a victim's life, but to determine a punishment that fits the crime and the criminal. So I therefore think victim impact evidence should be inadmissable during sentencing.

But this is just a very brief sketch of my developing thoughts, and I'm curious about others' opinions on the topic.

And an unrelated random photo for your enjoyment - this is a view of what I often see while walking around campus:

Reminders of God's sovereignty

One of my classmates has  been wearing an arm brace, and today I asked her about it...she was in a car accident nearly four years ago and has had five surgeries since. She's still in a lot of pain, and the saddest thing is that she was a violinist before the accident occurred. Not only was her arm basically shattered, but now she can't play the violin, which was both her career and her passion. I can't imagine what it would be like to go through that.

Earlier this week I was in touch with another friend who was in car accident several years ago, and she's been living with constant back pain ever since. The pain has severely limited her ability to sing and create artwork, which were two of her main pursuits prior to the accident. Hearing about both of these situations reminded me how our lives and ambitions can all be altered in a split second. Truly God holds our very lives in His hands, and we are dependent on his grace for our very breath. And though our trials may be deep, He is deeper still...and His grace is sufficient to bring us through.

For my thoughts are not your thoughts, neither are your ways my ways, declares the LORD. For as the heavens are higher than the earth, so are my ways higher than your ways and my thoughts than your thoughts. - Isaiah 55:8-9

Alternative Independence Day

When I arrived here, I certainly didn't imagine spending 4th of July in the German Colony in Haifa, eating a bountiful feast of Middle Eastern food in a restaurant decorated to look like a medieval Arabic house - but that's what I did! My roommates and I went out with a fellow classmate from Bulgaria, and we walked around the quaint street filled with stone houses. At the end of the road are the famous Baha'i Gardens, which are magnificent during the daytime and illuminated at night.

This morning I was blessed to wake up just as the sun was rising - I went to a balcony and since no one was around, I felt the freedom to sing and dance to God. Watching the morning mist roll of the mountain while the wind whipped around me brought such a vivid awareness of His presence. Thankful to start off the week of classes with this reminder of His glory.

 

Let me hear in the morning of your steadfast love, for in you I trust. Make me to know the way I should go, for to you I lift up my soul.  - Psalm 142:8

Taking a look around

For Shabbat, I went to worship at Kehilat HaCarmel with Laura, a woman I know from Minnesota who happens to be here in Haifa. She left today to volunteer with the IDF (Israeli army). The fellowship was different than any of the Messianic communities I've been to - more like a charismatic church with Hebrew songs and Arabic, Russian, and English translation. They have some neat ministries, including a shelter for refugees from Sudan and Eritrea.

I walked around campus a bit and was stunned by some of the gorgeous views...I kept saying "wow! wow! wow!" Unfortunately my photos only give a tiny glimpse - trust me that it's way better in person.

But the best part of the day was setting out on my own private hike through Mt. Carmel National Park - it is literally just steps away from our campus. What amazing views! Green, mountainous landscape with barely anyone around for miles. Had some excellent time talking with God and just enjoying His beautiful creation. It is so cool seeing the terrain and vegetation of the land of my spiritual heritage. Mt. Carmel is where Elijah challenged Baal's prophets to see whose deity could light the altar with fire - and of course, only the God of Israel showed Himself to be so powerful. Rak ata raui (You alone are worthy)!

Food: One of the universal languages

First mission: shopping for groceries before stores closed for Shabbat (Sabbath) - not much English on the packaging to go by, so I stuck with things like pasta that I know how to cook. Happy to report I already found a cereal I love (see photo). The little package with the cow wrapping is butter!

I managed to stay up all day yesterday despite the jetlag - nearly nodded off when I was trying to push through some reading assignments. I got to meet a lot of fellow students, and they all seem pretty friendly. I stayed up late talking with my American roommates, and I think we'll get along well. We also have two Israeli girls sharing the apartment with us, but I haven't seen much of them yet.