It started badly...I was attending a nearby shul (synagogue) which had been recommended to me by one of my interview subjects. Surprisingly, I didn't get lost on the way there, which is a very big accomplishment for me if you know my lack of directional awareness. But as more and more men entered, I quickly realized I might be the only woman there! It was an Orthodox synagogue, so women sit in a separate section divided from the men. So there I was, sitting all alone, behind the mechitzah (separation), watching a group of men do their prayers in Hebrew. I didn't have much of a clue as to what they were saying because the siddur (prayer book) didn't have any English translation, and I felt really awkward, disconnected, and lonely as the only woman sitting directly behind what was basically a wrought-iron gate. Thankfully, one of the men brought me a siddur with English translation, so I could sort of follow along.
Next they all began singing. So amazing! They sounded incredible. I'm not used to hearing only men sing, especially with so much vibrance. My little solo pity party in the women's section didn't last too long once I heard them sing.
But after the service, everyone was leaving pretty quickly because their wives were at home and dinner was waiting. I was looking around for someone named Avi, a friend of my interview subject, so I could attend dinner with his family. The problem was that I had only spoken to Avi on the phone several days earlier, so I had no idea who he was in the sea of men. Suddenly everyone had scattered and I found myself in the dark with a group of middle-aged men who told me to follow them to dinner. Picture this bizarre scenario: me walking several yards in front of this group of much older men to an unknown destination - generally not a great plan. But in this case, they were all members the shul and were trusted by someone I trusted. Plus I had just seen some of them leading the service, so I felt safe - just very confused and alone! I felt the tears welling up as I wondered what I was doing. But having no other options and coming that far already, I decided to suck it up and just go with the flow. Sooo glad I did!
On the way to dinner, a younger man who had been trailing behind the group introduced himself as Avi. Aha, the mysterious guy existed after all! Next we entered a beautiful home, where I was greeted warmly. And the dinner...oh, the dinner! It is one that will live in my memory. We are talking a multi-course array of gourmet kosher goodness that just seemed to have no end. I asked who actually made the feast and was told they have a cook who does it (!) So apparently the generous family, though humble, is very rich. The father goes on international business trips at least every other week. They offered me cognac after dinner and had bottles from several countries, as well as a really nice collection of expensive wine glasses and cognac glasses...but one small glass of wine during dinner was plenty for me.
Besides the food, the company was spectacular! There was a mix of ages, from a small boy to an elderly woman. I actually spent most of my time talking with the men because their English was better than the women's. So fascinating - we talked about women's roles in the synagogue (my research topic! yay!) including the separation of men and women and whether or not women should study Torah. I have to say here, with respect and sincere appreciation of their view, their explanations were very male-centric. I've been doing a lot of reading on these topics and speaking to various interview subjects, but for the most part the opinions I heard tonight were much more traditional than what I've been exposed to. Sometimes in situations where I disagree, I stay quiet and just listen (especially if I'm interviewing them), but this time, I wasn't interviewing them, and I felt comfortable enough with them to share my thoughts and ask a lot of probing questions - but with a spirit of learning and curiosity, trying not to come across as judgmental. We had lively conversations on these topics and several others, and much laughter and singing followed.
The whole dinner was such a treasure! I only regret that I met these people right before my departure. They all asked when I'm coming back - and I'm asking myself the same question. God willing, I'll return someday.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
The Night Bus
I had a wonderful evening interviewing several people for my research project and meeting our tour guide's family for dinner, but I hadn't thought about the bus station being closed after I arrived back in Haifa on a midnight train. So momentarily stranded, I had the choice of hailing a taxi or waiting for the night bus to start running. Being the shekel-pincher that I am, I sat down to wait for the night bus to come at 12:30. I had heard from my frequently-partying classmates that the night buses run all night, basically carrying young teenagers from one party scene to the next. So I availed myself of the opportunity to see this in person.
While I was waiting for the bus, a high school couple sat down on the seat right next to me and started making out quite unabashedly. Talk about awkward! But the bus finally came, and I noticed a security guard as I boarded...my next clue that this would be interesting. We don't see security guards on daytime buses.
At each stop, young teenagers (probably about 14-16 years old) would get on and off, talking and laughing loudly, dressed in their skimpy party clothes. I was wearing a long skirt and cardigan because I had just been with an Orthodox Jewish community, and the modest clothes made me feel kind of like an elderly matron in the midst of youthful-teenage-wildness central. I felt badly for the ultra-Orthodox couple that boarded the bus after me - I'm not sure where the man would have looked to avoid seeing a scantily clad teenager in front of him. Fortunately, I suppose, his wife was VERY pregnant, so perhaps her bulging belly blocked his view.
Nothing truly crazy happened, but just observing all these young people out partying was quite the experience. Meanwhile, I'm glad to be going to bed now, and I'm sure the night buses outside will keep rolling.
While I was waiting for the bus, a high school couple sat down on the seat right next to me and started making out quite unabashedly. Talk about awkward! But the bus finally came, and I noticed a security guard as I boarded...my next clue that this would be interesting. We don't see security guards on daytime buses.
At each stop, young teenagers (probably about 14-16 years old) would get on and off, talking and laughing loudly, dressed in their skimpy party clothes. I was wearing a long skirt and cardigan because I had just been with an Orthodox Jewish community, and the modest clothes made me feel kind of like an elderly matron in the midst of youthful-teenage-wildness central. I felt badly for the ultra-Orthodox couple that boarded the bus after me - I'm not sure where the man would have looked to avoid seeing a scantily clad teenager in front of him. Fortunately, I suppose, his wife was VERY pregnant, so perhaps her bulging belly blocked his view.
Nothing truly crazy happened, but just observing all these young people out partying was quite the experience. Meanwhile, I'm glad to be going to bed now, and I'm sure the night buses outside will keep rolling.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Yerushalayim
I've been to Jerusalem three times since arriving in Israel, and each time I am amazed by its complexity, beauty, richness, and diversity. Though religious tensions clearly exist, there is yet a special peace when roaming the streets on Shabbat...
Jerusalem breeze
Enfolding me
Wrapping me securely in the blanket of mercy
O Father, I find you here
In the city you have chosen to call Your own
I delight in the beauty and stillness
Your grace seeps into my soul
Filling my lungs with life
And my heart with songs of peace
Captivate me until I rest in You
Here, in Jerusalem
Jerusalem breeze
Enfolding me
Wrapping me securely in the blanket of mercy
O Father, I find you here
In the city you have chosen to call Your own
I delight in the beauty and stillness
Your grace seeps into my soul
Filling my lungs with life
And my heart with songs of peace
Captivate me until I rest in You
Here, in Jerusalem
Thursday, July 22, 2010
The Morality of Plea Bargains
In my Comparative Criminal Justice class, we’ve been talking for the past few weeks about plea bargains and philosophies of sentencing. Plea bargaining is viewed by most as a “necessary evil” – though it is not ideal for many reasons, our court system is so overwhelmed with cases that the only way to address them all is to allow (and encourage) plea bargains. Trials take a tremendous amount of time, money, and other resources. Increasing resources (equipping the justice system with more judges, prosecutors, etc.) would be insufficient, because any increase the government could actually afford would still make only a tiny fraction of a difference in increasing the number of trials that can be heard. Currently, about 95% of criminal cases result in plea bargains and only about 5% go to trial – so even a huge increase in resources is not going to enable the system to accommodate the remaining cases.
One argument against plea bargains, though, is that prosecutors and sometimes the judge can put pressure on the defendant to plead guilty even when he is innocent. Wrongful convictions do happen – no one knows, of course, how many there are – but research on exonerated convicts and other scenarios indicate that more innocent defendants than guilty defendants reject plea bargains and go to trial. The reason for this is generally thought to be moral in nature. Innocent defendants are unwilling to plead guilty and they optimistically believe the truth will prevail, even when they face incredible odds and know that a conviction could lead to a much harsher sentence.
So now nearly all the states in the USA (but not Israel) allow what is called an “Alford plea” – that is, the defendant can accept the prosecutor’s recommendation of a lighter sentence while still maintaining his or her innocence. When someone is innocent but can’t prove it – in other words, there is sufficient evidence which would most likely convict him or her if the case went to trial - this seems to me to be a good “solution” that sort of circumvents the moral dilemma associated with taking the “rational” choice (less prison time). Maybe people see this as a compromise. It’s certainly not ideal – in the ideal world, only guilty defendants would ever be convicted. But if I am convicted of a crime I didn’t commit, the prosecution has a strong case against me, and there is a very high likelihood of conviction if I go to trial – having the Alford plea option suddenly sounds pretty reasonable. Then again, I could just trust God to bring the truth to light. But I support Alford pleas as an option for defendants and find it interesting that many countries do not have this concept.
Random photo of the day: Gladiator Robyn. This pic was taken in Caesarea at the remains of the Hippodrome in the old chambers that held gladiators before they went out to fight. I know I look really threatening in my dress...
One argument against plea bargains, though, is that prosecutors and sometimes the judge can put pressure on the defendant to plead guilty even when he is innocent. Wrongful convictions do happen – no one knows, of course, how many there are – but research on exonerated convicts and other scenarios indicate that more innocent defendants than guilty defendants reject plea bargains and go to trial. The reason for this is generally thought to be moral in nature. Innocent defendants are unwilling to plead guilty and they optimistically believe the truth will prevail, even when they face incredible odds and know that a conviction could lead to a much harsher sentence.
So now nearly all the states in the USA (but not Israel) allow what is called an “Alford plea” – that is, the defendant can accept the prosecutor’s recommendation of a lighter sentence while still maintaining his or her innocence. When someone is innocent but can’t prove it – in other words, there is sufficient evidence which would most likely convict him or her if the case went to trial - this seems to me to be a good “solution” that sort of circumvents the moral dilemma associated with taking the “rational” choice (less prison time). Maybe people see this as a compromise. It’s certainly not ideal – in the ideal world, only guilty defendants would ever be convicted. But if I am convicted of a crime I didn’t commit, the prosecution has a strong case against me, and there is a very high likelihood of conviction if I go to trial – having the Alford plea option suddenly sounds pretty reasonable. Then again, I could just trust God to bring the truth to light. But I support Alford pleas as an option for defendants and find it interesting that many countries do not have this concept.
Random photo of the day: Gladiator Robyn. This pic was taken in Caesarea at the remains of the Hippodrome in the old chambers that held gladiators before they went out to fight. I know I look really threatening in my dress...
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Harmony
The past few days have been a whirlwind! After Galilee, our entire class went to Jerusalem for a tour of the Knesset (legislature), Supreme Court, Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial, and more...a lot to take in. I'm definitely not done processing. But moments after we finished in Jerusalem, I took off with a few friends for a fabulous float in the Dead Sea (the lowest place on earth!) and a scenic hike to some small waterfalls. But what made the biggest impression on me during the past few days was the following...
One morning, I split from the group to interview a man for my research project. He is one of the founders of a famous modern Orthodox Jewish synagogue which can be best defined as progressive in terms of its involvement of women in synagogue life. They are pushing the edges in terms of tradition, yet trying ardently to remain faithful to Jewish law. For example, men and women are still seated separately, but they allow women to read some of the prayers and Torah to the congregation (just not the parts which they believe are specifically designated as obligations for men to read or hear). This may not sound so progressive to my readers, but in modern Orthodox world, it is. They also aim to incorporate both a masculine and feminine "ethos" in the worship music and place a heavy emphasis on being hospitable - that is, being a place that is intentionally warmer than the society outside their doors.
The man I spoke with was very articulate and I felt blessed to be in his presence - he's obviously very intelligent and has thought extensively about faith, social movements, traditions, and their challenging intersections. He even knows of John Piper and has read a lot of C.S. Lewis. I really didn't think I'd be sitting in a cafe discussing C.S. Lewis with a modern Orthodox Jew!
He has a complicated history in terms of his cultural and religious background, and that tumultuous past has sparked his interest in working for peace. He's a scholar and professor, but he also tries to create dialogue among the groups most resistant to peace. He believes strongly that you can't have peace if people don't want peace. Both the gender and peace issues intrigue me, because I'm starting to grasp a tiny fraction of how unfathomably complicated the political and religious landscape is here in Israel. I sooo wish I had more time to pick his brain! I'm hoping to go visit the synagogue this weekend or next to observe, and I'm also planning to attend another synagogue that another interview subject invited me to.
I love learning like this! It takes a lot of initiative, perseverence, and our Father's grace, but it definitely illuminates and informs what I've been reading on paper. I'm grateful to have the opportunity to pursue this experience and meet with people face-to-face. I don't know what will stick with me most about this trip, but it may well be the conversations I've had here more than the sights I've seen. And that's saying a lot, because there is no shortage of incredible sights!
One morning, I split from the group to interview a man for my research project. He is one of the founders of a famous modern Orthodox Jewish synagogue which can be best defined as progressive in terms of its involvement of women in synagogue life. They are pushing the edges in terms of tradition, yet trying ardently to remain faithful to Jewish law. For example, men and women are still seated separately, but they allow women to read some of the prayers and Torah to the congregation (just not the parts which they believe are specifically designated as obligations for men to read or hear). This may not sound so progressive to my readers, but in modern Orthodox world, it is. They also aim to incorporate both a masculine and feminine "ethos" in the worship music and place a heavy emphasis on being hospitable - that is, being a place that is intentionally warmer than the society outside their doors.
The man I spoke with was very articulate and I felt blessed to be in his presence - he's obviously very intelligent and has thought extensively about faith, social movements, traditions, and their challenging intersections. He even knows of John Piper and has read a lot of C.S. Lewis. I really didn't think I'd be sitting in a cafe discussing C.S. Lewis with a modern Orthodox Jew!
He has a complicated history in terms of his cultural and religious background, and that tumultuous past has sparked his interest in working for peace. He's a scholar and professor, but he also tries to create dialogue among the groups most resistant to peace. He believes strongly that you can't have peace if people don't want peace. Both the gender and peace issues intrigue me, because I'm starting to grasp a tiny fraction of how unfathomably complicated the political and religious landscape is here in Israel. I sooo wish I had more time to pick his brain! I'm hoping to go visit the synagogue this weekend or next to observe, and I'm also planning to attend another synagogue that another interview subject invited me to.
I love learning like this! It takes a lot of initiative, perseverence, and our Father's grace, but it definitely illuminates and informs what I've been reading on paper. I'm grateful to have the opportunity to pursue this experience and meet with people face-to-face. I don't know what will stick with me most about this trip, but it may well be the conversations I've had here more than the sights I've seen. And that's saying a lot, because there is no shortage of incredible sights!
Sunday, July 18, 2010
In the Footsteps of Christ
Since my original weekend plans fell through, I decided to pack my bag and head to the Sea of Galilee. Three of my classmates decided to join me. I'm pretty impressed they decided to come, because I basically gave them an hour to get ready and told them I had no guarantees about what we'd be doing when we got there besides lots of walking. But we had quite the adventure!
First of all, our bus driver told us to get off at the wrong stop, so the hostel that was supposedly 1.5 km away was, um...not. After dragging our bags up and downhill in the heavy sun for a while, we were delighted to find a different hotel that was very nice, except it was a lot more expensive. We were determined to find the original hostel, and we didn't believe the hotel clerk who said it was a 45 minute walk. On my map they looked right next to each other. But a 45 minute walk it was, with our heavy bags to boot.
After arriving at the hostel, we were informed that despite my attempted reservation, they were booked. I had tried to contact them several times earlier to confirm my reservation, but in the end...no room at the inn! Very Jesus-style traveling. But the hostel staff did let us eat dinner there, which was a buffet of endless wonder after our hot journey.
Next we weighed our options: sleeping on a campground with no tent and no bedding, or going back to the hotel. Though the adventurous quality of sleeping outside was tempting, we went the much safer route. I can best summarize the hotel as an oasis - so glad we all stayed there.
Th next day, I got up early with my friend Amanda to watch the sunrise and take a morning dip in the Sea of Galilee, which was just steps from our hotel. People generally aren't supposed to swim in the Sea, but they just ignore the signs and do anyway. But our hotel had its own little "beach" (rocks), so we didn't even have to break any rules. Unfortunately, in my attempt to spare my feet from the rocky shore, I ended up breaking a sandal. Good thing I packed another pair of shoes!
Swimming in the Sea of Galilee was my best moment here so far. Not only did it feel wonderful with the hot sun bearing down on us, but I was in "Jesus water"! Other places here haven't affected me that much, but the sea was so similar to how it would have looked back in the day...there is suprisingly very little built up around the sea. So I could really enjoy it and imagine what it must have been like when Christ was there. Could not stop smiling.
The rest of our day entailed walking to Capernaum and the Mount of Beatitudes. The Mount was special to me because my church has been memorizing the Sermon on the Mount since January. The words are so familiar, and I now have a new perspective from seeing the fields and views from there. I also have a new appreciation for "the gate is narrow and the way is hard that leads to life" because our trek there was a very arduous journey. One would think that such a famous spot would be well-marked, but we asked at least four people and they all gave us different directions. Never once did we see a sign. Apparently everyone takes air-conditioned tour buses up the mountain and hardly anyone walks it, but we eventually found a path uphill (and I mean REALLY uphill) and cut through a field to get there. My guidebook has served me well until this past weekend, but it mentioned nothing about which stop to get off at for the hostel or searching for an unmarked trail.
But all in all, despite our extra wandering, we saw the much of the land where Jesus did most of his ministry and miracles...so it was well worth the adventure.
First of all, our bus driver told us to get off at the wrong stop, so the hostel that was supposedly 1.5 km away was, um...not. After dragging our bags up and downhill in the heavy sun for a while, we were delighted to find a different hotel that was very nice, except it was a lot more expensive. We were determined to find the original hostel, and we didn't believe the hotel clerk who said it was a 45 minute walk. On my map they looked right next to each other. But a 45 minute walk it was, with our heavy bags to boot.
After arriving at the hostel, we were informed that despite my attempted reservation, they were booked. I had tried to contact them several times earlier to confirm my reservation, but in the end...no room at the inn! Very Jesus-style traveling. But the hostel staff did let us eat dinner there, which was a buffet of endless wonder after our hot journey.
Next we weighed our options: sleeping on a campground with no tent and no bedding, or going back to the hotel. Though the adventurous quality of sleeping outside was tempting, we went the much safer route. I can best summarize the hotel as an oasis - so glad we all stayed there.
Th next day, I got up early with my friend Amanda to watch the sunrise and take a morning dip in the Sea of Galilee, which was just steps from our hotel. People generally aren't supposed to swim in the Sea, but they just ignore the signs and do anyway. But our hotel had its own little "beach" (rocks), so we didn't even have to break any rules. Unfortunately, in my attempt to spare my feet from the rocky shore, I ended up breaking a sandal. Good thing I packed another pair of shoes!
Swimming in the Sea of Galilee was my best moment here so far. Not only did it feel wonderful with the hot sun bearing down on us, but I was in "Jesus water"! Other places here haven't affected me that much, but the sea was so similar to how it would have looked back in the day...there is suprisingly very little built up around the sea. So I could really enjoy it and imagine what it must have been like when Christ was there. Could not stop smiling.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
You never know what's in store
Isn't it amazing how you can wake up expecting a pretty uneventful day, but then it suddenly gets filled with magical moments?
I woke up just as the sun was rising again (glorious!) and after class, my roommates and I decided to take a spontaneous trip to a part of the city we hadn't seen before. So not only did some tasty banana brulee enter my life at this point, but we also walked by a yoga studio. Happy Robyn! I have been missing my gym a bit - getting a lot of exercise walking uphill, but I haven't been doing crunches and such on my hard tile bedroom floor. So I walked into the studio and asked about their classes, and they gave me a free pass to Pilates this evening! I had to borrow someone else's workout pants and the instructor had an unexpected chance to practice her English, but it was great.
Then I found a grocery store to shop at, which in my world is exciting. I generally just enjoy grocery shopping, but finding this store was especially rewarding because I have already lost interest in the tiny store on campus which has no fresh fruits or vegetables - unless you count a red pepper that is sprouting things "fresh."
But my day got even better...there was a salsa lesson and dance on campus! Picture a room full of students from all over the world dancing together - so fun :) They were doing a style of Cuban salsa that incorporates dancing in circles and switching partners, which they patiently taught me and I completely loved! As I was getting ready to leave, I met a Korean student, and it turned out she and I had a lot of common interests -was especially glad to learn she is a sister in Christ! She is here studying the Hebrew language so she can read the Old Testament in Hebrew. We jabbered on and on until maintenance kicked us out of the building.
How I love surprises, especially ones that involve good food, getting to know people from around the world, and dancing. Thankful to God for the great day :)
I woke up just as the sun was rising again (glorious!) and after class, my roommates and I decided to take a spontaneous trip to a part of the city we hadn't seen before. So not only did some tasty banana brulee enter my life at this point, but we also walked by a yoga studio. Happy Robyn! I have been missing my gym a bit - getting a lot of exercise walking uphill, but I haven't been doing crunches and such on my hard tile bedroom floor. So I walked into the studio and asked about their classes, and they gave me a free pass to Pilates this evening! I had to borrow someone else's workout pants and the instructor had an unexpected chance to practice her English, but it was great.
Then I found a grocery store to shop at, which in my world is exciting. I generally just enjoy grocery shopping, but finding this store was especially rewarding because I have already lost interest in the tiny store on campus which has no fresh fruits or vegetables - unless you count a red pepper that is sprouting things "fresh."
But my day got even better...there was a salsa lesson and dance on campus! Picture a room full of students from all over the world dancing together - so fun :) They were doing a style of Cuban salsa that incorporates dancing in circles and switching partners, which they patiently taught me and I completely loved! As I was getting ready to leave, I met a Korean student, and it turned out she and I had a lot of common interests -was especially glad to learn she is a sister in Christ! She is here studying the Hebrew language so she can read the Old Testament in Hebrew. We jabbered on and on until maintenance kicked us out of the building.
How I love surprises, especially ones that involve good food, getting to know people from around the world, and dancing. Thankful to God for the great day :)
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