It started badly...I was attending a nearby shul (synagogue) which had been recommended to me by one of my interview subjects. Surprisingly, I didn't get lost on the way there, which is a very big accomplishment for me if you know my lack of directional awareness. But as more and more men entered, I quickly realized I might be the only woman there! It was an Orthodox synagogue, so women sit in a separate section divided from the men. So there I was, sitting all alone, behind the mechitzah (separation), watching a group of men do their prayers in Hebrew. I didn't have much of a clue as to what they were saying because the siddur (prayer book) didn't have any English translation, and I felt really awkward, disconnected, and lonely as the only woman sitting directly behind what was basically a wrought-iron gate. Thankfully, one of the men brought me a siddur with English translation, so I could sort of follow along.
Next they all began singing. So amazing! They sounded incredible. I'm not used to hearing only men sing, especially with so much vibrance. My little solo pity party in the women's section didn't last too long once I heard them sing.
But after the service, everyone was leaving pretty quickly because their wives were at home and dinner was waiting. I was looking around for someone named Avi, a friend of my interview subject, so I could attend dinner with his family. The problem was that I had only spoken to Avi on the phone several days earlier, so I had no idea who he was in the sea of men. Suddenly everyone had scattered and I found myself in the dark with a group of middle-aged men who told me to follow them to dinner. Picture this bizarre scenario: me walking several yards in front of this group of much older men to an unknown destination - generally not a great plan. But in this case, they were all members the shul and were trusted by someone I trusted. Plus I had just seen some of them leading the service, so I felt safe - just very confused and alone! I felt the tears welling up as I wondered what I was doing. But having no other options and coming that far already, I decided to suck it up and just go with the flow. Sooo glad I did!
On the way to dinner, a younger man who had been trailing behind the group introduced himself as Avi. Aha, the mysterious guy existed after all! Next we entered a beautiful home, where I was greeted warmly. And the dinner...oh, the dinner! It is one that will live in my memory. We are talking a multi-course array of gourmet kosher goodness that just seemed to have no end. I asked who actually made the feast and was told they have a cook who does it (!) So apparently the generous family, though humble, is very rich. The father goes on international business trips at least every other week. They offered me cognac after dinner and had bottles from several countries, as well as a really nice collection of expensive wine glasses and cognac glasses...but one small glass of wine during dinner was plenty for me.
Besides the food, the company was spectacular! There was a mix of ages, from a small boy to an elderly woman. I actually spent most of my time talking with the men because their English was better than the women's. So fascinating - we talked about women's roles in the synagogue (my research topic! yay!) including the separation of men and women and whether or not women should study Torah. I have to say here, with respect and sincere appreciation of their view, their explanations were very male-centric. I've been doing a lot of reading on these topics and speaking to various interview subjects, but for the most part the opinions I heard tonight were much more traditional than what I've been exposed to. Sometimes in situations where I disagree, I stay quiet and just listen (especially if I'm interviewing them), but this time, I wasn't interviewing them, and I felt comfortable enough with them to share my thoughts and ask a lot of probing questions - but with a spirit of learning and curiosity, trying not to come across as judgmental. We had lively conversations on these topics and several others, and much laughter and singing followed.
The whole dinner was such a treasure! I only regret that I met these people right before my departure. They all asked when I'm coming back - and I'm asking myself the same question. God willing, I'll return someday.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
The Night Bus
I had a wonderful evening interviewing several people for my research project and meeting our tour guide's family for dinner, but I hadn't thought about the bus station being closed after I arrived back in Haifa on a midnight train. So momentarily stranded, I had the choice of hailing a taxi or waiting for the night bus to start running. Being the shekel-pincher that I am, I sat down to wait for the night bus to come at 12:30. I had heard from my frequently-partying classmates that the night buses run all night, basically carrying young teenagers from one party scene to the next. So I availed myself of the opportunity to see this in person.
While I was waiting for the bus, a high school couple sat down on the seat right next to me and started making out quite unabashedly. Talk about awkward! But the bus finally came, and I noticed a security guard as I boarded...my next clue that this would be interesting. We don't see security guards on daytime buses.
At each stop, young teenagers (probably about 14-16 years old) would get on and off, talking and laughing loudly, dressed in their skimpy party clothes. I was wearing a long skirt and cardigan because I had just been with an Orthodox Jewish community, and the modest clothes made me feel kind of like an elderly matron in the midst of youthful-teenage-wildness central. I felt badly for the ultra-Orthodox couple that boarded the bus after me - I'm not sure where the man would have looked to avoid seeing a scantily clad teenager in front of him. Fortunately, I suppose, his wife was VERY pregnant, so perhaps her bulging belly blocked his view.
Nothing truly crazy happened, but just observing all these young people out partying was quite the experience. Meanwhile, I'm glad to be going to bed now, and I'm sure the night buses outside will keep rolling.
While I was waiting for the bus, a high school couple sat down on the seat right next to me and started making out quite unabashedly. Talk about awkward! But the bus finally came, and I noticed a security guard as I boarded...my next clue that this would be interesting. We don't see security guards on daytime buses.
At each stop, young teenagers (probably about 14-16 years old) would get on and off, talking and laughing loudly, dressed in their skimpy party clothes. I was wearing a long skirt and cardigan because I had just been with an Orthodox Jewish community, and the modest clothes made me feel kind of like an elderly matron in the midst of youthful-teenage-wildness central. I felt badly for the ultra-Orthodox couple that boarded the bus after me - I'm not sure where the man would have looked to avoid seeing a scantily clad teenager in front of him. Fortunately, I suppose, his wife was VERY pregnant, so perhaps her bulging belly blocked his view.
Nothing truly crazy happened, but just observing all these young people out partying was quite the experience. Meanwhile, I'm glad to be going to bed now, and I'm sure the night buses outside will keep rolling.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Yerushalayim
I've been to Jerusalem three times since arriving in Israel, and each time I am amazed by its complexity, beauty, richness, and diversity. Though religious tensions clearly exist, there is yet a special peace when roaming the streets on Shabbat...
Jerusalem breeze
Enfolding me
Wrapping me securely in the blanket of mercy
O Father, I find you here
In the city you have chosen to call Your own
I delight in the beauty and stillness
Your grace seeps into my soul
Filling my lungs with life
And my heart with songs of peace
Captivate me until I rest in You
Here, in Jerusalem
Jerusalem breeze
Enfolding me
Wrapping me securely in the blanket of mercy
O Father, I find you here
In the city you have chosen to call Your own
I delight in the beauty and stillness
Your grace seeps into my soul
Filling my lungs with life
And my heart with songs of peace
Captivate me until I rest in You
Here, in Jerusalem
Thursday, July 22, 2010
The Morality of Plea Bargains
In my Comparative Criminal Justice class, we’ve been talking for the past few weeks about plea bargains and philosophies of sentencing. Plea bargaining is viewed by most as a “necessary evil” – though it is not ideal for many reasons, our court system is so overwhelmed with cases that the only way to address them all is to allow (and encourage) plea bargains. Trials take a tremendous amount of time, money, and other resources. Increasing resources (equipping the justice system with more judges, prosecutors, etc.) would be insufficient, because any increase the government could actually afford would still make only a tiny fraction of a difference in increasing the number of trials that can be heard. Currently, about 95% of criminal cases result in plea bargains and only about 5% go to trial – so even a huge increase in resources is not going to enable the system to accommodate the remaining cases.
One argument against plea bargains, though, is that prosecutors and sometimes the judge can put pressure on the defendant to plead guilty even when he is innocent. Wrongful convictions do happen – no one knows, of course, how many there are – but research on exonerated convicts and other scenarios indicate that more innocent defendants than guilty defendants reject plea bargains and go to trial. The reason for this is generally thought to be moral in nature. Innocent defendants are unwilling to plead guilty and they optimistically believe the truth will prevail, even when they face incredible odds and know that a conviction could lead to a much harsher sentence.
So now nearly all the states in the USA (but not Israel) allow what is called an “Alford plea” – that is, the defendant can accept the prosecutor’s recommendation of a lighter sentence while still maintaining his or her innocence. When someone is innocent but can’t prove it – in other words, there is sufficient evidence which would most likely convict him or her if the case went to trial - this seems to me to be a good “solution” that sort of circumvents the moral dilemma associated with taking the “rational” choice (less prison time). Maybe people see this as a compromise. It’s certainly not ideal – in the ideal world, only guilty defendants would ever be convicted. But if I am convicted of a crime I didn’t commit, the prosecution has a strong case against me, and there is a very high likelihood of conviction if I go to trial – having the Alford plea option suddenly sounds pretty reasonable. Then again, I could just trust God to bring the truth to light. But I support Alford pleas as an option for defendants and find it interesting that many countries do not have this concept.
Random photo of the day: Gladiator Robyn. This pic was taken in Caesarea at the remains of the Hippodrome in the old chambers that held gladiators before they went out to fight. I know I look really threatening in my dress...
One argument against plea bargains, though, is that prosecutors and sometimes the judge can put pressure on the defendant to plead guilty even when he is innocent. Wrongful convictions do happen – no one knows, of course, how many there are – but research on exonerated convicts and other scenarios indicate that more innocent defendants than guilty defendants reject plea bargains and go to trial. The reason for this is generally thought to be moral in nature. Innocent defendants are unwilling to plead guilty and they optimistically believe the truth will prevail, even when they face incredible odds and know that a conviction could lead to a much harsher sentence.
So now nearly all the states in the USA (but not Israel) allow what is called an “Alford plea” – that is, the defendant can accept the prosecutor’s recommendation of a lighter sentence while still maintaining his or her innocence. When someone is innocent but can’t prove it – in other words, there is sufficient evidence which would most likely convict him or her if the case went to trial - this seems to me to be a good “solution” that sort of circumvents the moral dilemma associated with taking the “rational” choice (less prison time). Maybe people see this as a compromise. It’s certainly not ideal – in the ideal world, only guilty defendants would ever be convicted. But if I am convicted of a crime I didn’t commit, the prosecution has a strong case against me, and there is a very high likelihood of conviction if I go to trial – having the Alford plea option suddenly sounds pretty reasonable. Then again, I could just trust God to bring the truth to light. But I support Alford pleas as an option for defendants and find it interesting that many countries do not have this concept.
Random photo of the day: Gladiator Robyn. This pic was taken in Caesarea at the remains of the Hippodrome in the old chambers that held gladiators before they went out to fight. I know I look really threatening in my dress...
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Harmony
The past few days have been a whirlwind! After Galilee, our entire class went to Jerusalem for a tour of the Knesset (legislature), Supreme Court, Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial, and more...a lot to take in. I'm definitely not done processing. But moments after we finished in Jerusalem, I took off with a few friends for a fabulous float in the Dead Sea (the lowest place on earth!) and a scenic hike to some small waterfalls. But what made the biggest impression on me during the past few days was the following...
One morning, I split from the group to interview a man for my research project. He is one of the founders of a famous modern Orthodox Jewish synagogue which can be best defined as progressive in terms of its involvement of women in synagogue life. They are pushing the edges in terms of tradition, yet trying ardently to remain faithful to Jewish law. For example, men and women are still seated separately, but they allow women to read some of the prayers and Torah to the congregation (just not the parts which they believe are specifically designated as obligations for men to read or hear). This may not sound so progressive to my readers, but in modern Orthodox world, it is. They also aim to incorporate both a masculine and feminine "ethos" in the worship music and place a heavy emphasis on being hospitable - that is, being a place that is intentionally warmer than the society outside their doors.
The man I spoke with was very articulate and I felt blessed to be in his presence - he's obviously very intelligent and has thought extensively about faith, social movements, traditions, and their challenging intersections. He even knows of John Piper and has read a lot of C.S. Lewis. I really didn't think I'd be sitting in a cafe discussing C.S. Lewis with a modern Orthodox Jew!
He has a complicated history in terms of his cultural and religious background, and that tumultuous past has sparked his interest in working for peace. He's a scholar and professor, but he also tries to create dialogue among the groups most resistant to peace. He believes strongly that you can't have peace if people don't want peace. Both the gender and peace issues intrigue me, because I'm starting to grasp a tiny fraction of how unfathomably complicated the political and religious landscape is here in Israel. I sooo wish I had more time to pick his brain! I'm hoping to go visit the synagogue this weekend or next to observe, and I'm also planning to attend another synagogue that another interview subject invited me to.
I love learning like this! It takes a lot of initiative, perseverence, and our Father's grace, but it definitely illuminates and informs what I've been reading on paper. I'm grateful to have the opportunity to pursue this experience and meet with people face-to-face. I don't know what will stick with me most about this trip, but it may well be the conversations I've had here more than the sights I've seen. And that's saying a lot, because there is no shortage of incredible sights!
One morning, I split from the group to interview a man for my research project. He is one of the founders of a famous modern Orthodox Jewish synagogue which can be best defined as progressive in terms of its involvement of women in synagogue life. They are pushing the edges in terms of tradition, yet trying ardently to remain faithful to Jewish law. For example, men and women are still seated separately, but they allow women to read some of the prayers and Torah to the congregation (just not the parts which they believe are specifically designated as obligations for men to read or hear). This may not sound so progressive to my readers, but in modern Orthodox world, it is. They also aim to incorporate both a masculine and feminine "ethos" in the worship music and place a heavy emphasis on being hospitable - that is, being a place that is intentionally warmer than the society outside their doors.
The man I spoke with was very articulate and I felt blessed to be in his presence - he's obviously very intelligent and has thought extensively about faith, social movements, traditions, and their challenging intersections. He even knows of John Piper and has read a lot of C.S. Lewis. I really didn't think I'd be sitting in a cafe discussing C.S. Lewis with a modern Orthodox Jew!
He has a complicated history in terms of his cultural and religious background, and that tumultuous past has sparked his interest in working for peace. He's a scholar and professor, but he also tries to create dialogue among the groups most resistant to peace. He believes strongly that you can't have peace if people don't want peace. Both the gender and peace issues intrigue me, because I'm starting to grasp a tiny fraction of how unfathomably complicated the political and religious landscape is here in Israel. I sooo wish I had more time to pick his brain! I'm hoping to go visit the synagogue this weekend or next to observe, and I'm also planning to attend another synagogue that another interview subject invited me to.
I love learning like this! It takes a lot of initiative, perseverence, and our Father's grace, but it definitely illuminates and informs what I've been reading on paper. I'm grateful to have the opportunity to pursue this experience and meet with people face-to-face. I don't know what will stick with me most about this trip, but it may well be the conversations I've had here more than the sights I've seen. And that's saying a lot, because there is no shortage of incredible sights!
Sunday, July 18, 2010
In the Footsteps of Christ
Since my original weekend plans fell through, I decided to pack my bag and head to the Sea of Galilee. Three of my classmates decided to join me. I'm pretty impressed they decided to come, because I basically gave them an hour to get ready and told them I had no guarantees about what we'd be doing when we got there besides lots of walking. But we had quite the adventure!
First of all, our bus driver told us to get off at the wrong stop, so the hostel that was supposedly 1.5 km away was, um...not. After dragging our bags up and downhill in the heavy sun for a while, we were delighted to find a different hotel that was very nice, except it was a lot more expensive. We were determined to find the original hostel, and we didn't believe the hotel clerk who said it was a 45 minute walk. On my map they looked right next to each other. But a 45 minute walk it was, with our heavy bags to boot.
After arriving at the hostel, we were informed that despite my attempted reservation, they were booked. I had tried to contact them several times earlier to confirm my reservation, but in the end...no room at the inn! Very Jesus-style traveling. But the hostel staff did let us eat dinner there, which was a buffet of endless wonder after our hot journey.
Next we weighed our options: sleeping on a campground with no tent and no bedding, or going back to the hotel. Though the adventurous quality of sleeping outside was tempting, we went the much safer route. I can best summarize the hotel as an oasis - so glad we all stayed there.
Th next day, I got up early with my friend Amanda to watch the sunrise and take a morning dip in the Sea of Galilee, which was just steps from our hotel. People generally aren't supposed to swim in the Sea, but they just ignore the signs and do anyway. But our hotel had its own little "beach" (rocks), so we didn't even have to break any rules. Unfortunately, in my attempt to spare my feet from the rocky shore, I ended up breaking a sandal. Good thing I packed another pair of shoes!
Swimming in the Sea of Galilee was my best moment here so far. Not only did it feel wonderful with the hot sun bearing down on us, but I was in "Jesus water"! Other places here haven't affected me that much, but the sea was so similar to how it would have looked back in the day...there is suprisingly very little built up around the sea. So I could really enjoy it and imagine what it must have been like when Christ was there. Could not stop smiling.
The rest of our day entailed walking to Capernaum and the Mount of Beatitudes. The Mount was special to me because my church has been memorizing the Sermon on the Mount since January. The words are so familiar, and I now have a new perspective from seeing the fields and views from there. I also have a new appreciation for "the gate is narrow and the way is hard that leads to life" because our trek there was a very arduous journey. One would think that such a famous spot would be well-marked, but we asked at least four people and they all gave us different directions. Never once did we see a sign. Apparently everyone takes air-conditioned tour buses up the mountain and hardly anyone walks it, but we eventually found a path uphill (and I mean REALLY uphill) and cut through a field to get there. My guidebook has served me well until this past weekend, but it mentioned nothing about which stop to get off at for the hostel or searching for an unmarked trail.
But all in all, despite our extra wandering, we saw the much of the land where Jesus did most of his ministry and miracles...so it was well worth the adventure.
First of all, our bus driver told us to get off at the wrong stop, so the hostel that was supposedly 1.5 km away was, um...not. After dragging our bags up and downhill in the heavy sun for a while, we were delighted to find a different hotel that was very nice, except it was a lot more expensive. We were determined to find the original hostel, and we didn't believe the hotel clerk who said it was a 45 minute walk. On my map they looked right next to each other. But a 45 minute walk it was, with our heavy bags to boot.
After arriving at the hostel, we were informed that despite my attempted reservation, they were booked. I had tried to contact them several times earlier to confirm my reservation, but in the end...no room at the inn! Very Jesus-style traveling. But the hostel staff did let us eat dinner there, which was a buffet of endless wonder after our hot journey.
Next we weighed our options: sleeping on a campground with no tent and no bedding, or going back to the hotel. Though the adventurous quality of sleeping outside was tempting, we went the much safer route. I can best summarize the hotel as an oasis - so glad we all stayed there.
Th next day, I got up early with my friend Amanda to watch the sunrise and take a morning dip in the Sea of Galilee, which was just steps from our hotel. People generally aren't supposed to swim in the Sea, but they just ignore the signs and do anyway. But our hotel had its own little "beach" (rocks), so we didn't even have to break any rules. Unfortunately, in my attempt to spare my feet from the rocky shore, I ended up breaking a sandal. Good thing I packed another pair of shoes!
Swimming in the Sea of Galilee was my best moment here so far. Not only did it feel wonderful with the hot sun bearing down on us, but I was in "Jesus water"! Other places here haven't affected me that much, but the sea was so similar to how it would have looked back in the day...there is suprisingly very little built up around the sea. So I could really enjoy it and imagine what it must have been like when Christ was there. Could not stop smiling.
The rest of our day entailed walking to Capernaum and the Mount of Beatitudes. The Mount was special to me because my church has been memorizing the Sermon on the Mount since January. The words are so familiar, and I now have a new perspective from seeing the fields and views from there. I also have a new appreciation for "the gate is narrow and the way is hard that leads to life" because our trek there was a very arduous journey. One would think that such a famous spot would be well-marked, but we asked at least four people and they all gave us different directions. Never once did we see a sign. Apparently everyone takes air-conditioned tour buses up the mountain and hardly anyone walks it, but we eventually found a path uphill (and I mean REALLY uphill) and cut through a field to get there. My guidebook has served me well until this past weekend, but it mentioned nothing about which stop to get off at for the hostel or searching for an unmarked trail.
But all in all, despite our extra wandering, we saw the much of the land where Jesus did most of his ministry and miracles...so it was well worth the adventure.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
You never know what's in store
Isn't it amazing how you can wake up expecting a pretty uneventful day, but then it suddenly gets filled with magical moments?
I woke up just as the sun was rising again (glorious!) and after class, my roommates and I decided to take a spontaneous trip to a part of the city we hadn't seen before. So not only did some tasty banana brulee enter my life at this point, but we also walked by a yoga studio. Happy Robyn! I have been missing my gym a bit - getting a lot of exercise walking uphill, but I haven't been doing crunches and such on my hard tile bedroom floor. So I walked into the studio and asked about their classes, and they gave me a free pass to Pilates this evening! I had to borrow someone else's workout pants and the instructor had an unexpected chance to practice her English, but it was great.
Then I found a grocery store to shop at, which in my world is exciting. I generally just enjoy grocery shopping, but finding this store was especially rewarding because I have already lost interest in the tiny store on campus which has no fresh fruits or vegetables - unless you count a red pepper that is sprouting things "fresh."
But my day got even better...there was a salsa lesson and dance on campus! Picture a room full of students from all over the world dancing together - so fun :) They were doing a style of Cuban salsa that incorporates dancing in circles and switching partners, which they patiently taught me and I completely loved! As I was getting ready to leave, I met a Korean student, and it turned out she and I had a lot of common interests -was especially glad to learn she is a sister in Christ! She is here studying the Hebrew language so she can read the Old Testament in Hebrew. We jabbered on and on until maintenance kicked us out of the building.
How I love surprises, especially ones that involve good food, getting to know people from around the world, and dancing. Thankful to God for the great day :)
I woke up just as the sun was rising again (glorious!) and after class, my roommates and I decided to take a spontaneous trip to a part of the city we hadn't seen before. So not only did some tasty banana brulee enter my life at this point, but we also walked by a yoga studio. Happy Robyn! I have been missing my gym a bit - getting a lot of exercise walking uphill, but I haven't been doing crunches and such on my hard tile bedroom floor. So I walked into the studio and asked about their classes, and they gave me a free pass to Pilates this evening! I had to borrow someone else's workout pants and the instructor had an unexpected chance to practice her English, but it was great.
Then I found a grocery store to shop at, which in my world is exciting. I generally just enjoy grocery shopping, but finding this store was especially rewarding because I have already lost interest in the tiny store on campus which has no fresh fruits or vegetables - unless you count a red pepper that is sprouting things "fresh."
But my day got even better...there was a salsa lesson and dance on campus! Picture a room full of students from all over the world dancing together - so fun :) They were doing a style of Cuban salsa that incorporates dancing in circles and switching partners, which they patiently taught me and I completely loved! As I was getting ready to leave, I met a Korean student, and it turned out she and I had a lot of common interests -was especially glad to learn she is a sister in Christ! She is here studying the Hebrew language so she can read the Old Testament in Hebrew. We jabbered on and on until maintenance kicked us out of the building.
How I love surprises, especially ones that involve good food, getting to know people from around the world, and dancing. Thankful to God for the great day :)
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Faith and Feminism
Today I was so blessed to meet with a member of the local Modern Orthodox Jewish community who organizes events among several synagogues in the area. We had such a great conversation! He helped me a lot on my research project and was so forthright and articulate about his views on faith, tradition, the role of women in the synagogue, etc. He's also going to connect me with other people I can interview.
I am so thankful for this because I have been dealing with some frustration on my research project lately, but this really brightened my outlook and reaffirmed my decision to pursue the project. Getting to know people in the community while learning is definitely a great way to spend my "free" time here...if only all the initial contacts and arrangement of logistics didn't take so long!
My project explores the role of women in synagogues in light of (1) commitment to Jewish law & tradition and (2) modern feminist thought. So interesting to hear various perspectives on how synagogues divide the men and women's sections, whether or not they allow women to read Torah, and if women should be ordained as rabbis or not. For me, this is of particular interest because within Christian circles, views on women's roles vary from one denomination to another and even from one woman to another. It's intriguing to see how adherents to another faith tradition deal with these issues.
I am so thankful for this because I have been dealing with some frustration on my research project lately, but this really brightened my outlook and reaffirmed my decision to pursue the project. Getting to know people in the community while learning is definitely a great way to spend my "free" time here...if only all the initial contacts and arrangement of logistics didn't take so long!
My project explores the role of women in synagogues in light of (1) commitment to Jewish law & tradition and (2) modern feminist thought. So interesting to hear various perspectives on how synagogues divide the men and women's sections, whether or not they allow women to read Torah, and if women should be ordained as rabbis or not. For me, this is of particular interest because within Christian circles, views on women's roles vary from one denomination to another and even from one woman to another. It's intriguing to see how adherents to another faith tradition deal with these issues.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
The Old City of Jerusalem...a complicated place
After a rather adventurous journey from Haifa to our convent guesthouse in Jerusalem, my friend Mirela and I set out to explore the Old City. Between Fri and Sat, we covered nearly all of it on foot...the picturesque rooftops, the Via Dolorosa (supposedly the steps of Christ to his crucifixion), the crowded, steep alleys filled with shops, and even the cavernous ruins beneath our guesthouse (where I felt a bit like Indiana Jones).
The Old City is definitely impossible to summarize even close to adequately, but one of my main takeaways was the complexity of the diversity within the walls of the Old City. There are mosques, churches, and synagogues all crammed in next to each other, and you see adherents to all different sects of Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. Walking down a short street, you can run into a Hasidic Jewish family, Muslim teens, a group of Catholic pilgrims, and a Greek Orthodox priest all within about sixty seconds. It's really an incredible place for observing people, except you really can't stand still and do that. If you pause for even a second, a nearby shopkeeper will start beckoning with some variation of the following script: "Lady! Hello.Where are you from? You need directions? Where are you going? I have a shortcut through my shop. Come look! Special discount for you today. One hundred percent off for ladies." My tried-and-true method was to just keep walking and pretend I couldn't understand.
We watched people gather at the Western Wall as Shabbat began...so interesting to see the square go from fairly empty to jam-packed, and observe how differently various groups and individuals conducted themselves. Some were rocking and praying silently, while others sang and danced in circles. I felt zero spiritual significance while at the Wall, except sadness that those who are so strictly observant of religious traditions don't know the Messiah. And while I was walking along the steps of Christ, I didn't feel any connection other than a new appreciation for how long and uphill the journey was. It's difficult to attach any meaning to a place when it doesn't look the way it would have thousands of years ago. Most disturbing for me was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which covers the area historians think was Golgotha and Christ's tomb - it's so ornate and filled with tourists, absolutely nothing like it would have been back in the day of Christ's death and resurrection. All the nearby shops were crammed with religious trinkets and icons, which made me just want to get away from the commercialism.
The most spiritual moment I experienced in Jerusalem was when we were walking along the city walls and heard some singing. We looked down into a square below us and saw a group of British teens belting out Hebrew worship songs as Shabbat came to an end, then their leader told them a parable and they continued singing with their arms around one another. This was a moment when I did stop literally stop in my tracks and just absorb the moment...the voices raised in unison were so captivating. They don't know the Messiah now, but I pray that one day they will sing to Him.
The Old City is definitely impossible to summarize even close to adequately, but one of my main takeaways was the complexity of the diversity within the walls of the Old City. There are mosques, churches, and synagogues all crammed in next to each other, and you see adherents to all different sects of Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. Walking down a short street, you can run into a Hasidic Jewish family, Muslim teens, a group of Catholic pilgrims, and a Greek Orthodox priest all within about sixty seconds. It's really an incredible place for observing people, except you really can't stand still and do that. If you pause for even a second, a nearby shopkeeper will start beckoning with some variation of the following script: "Lady! Hello.Where are you from? You need directions? Where are you going? I have a shortcut through my shop. Come look! Special discount for you today. One hundred percent off for ladies." My tried-and-true method was to just keep walking and pretend I couldn't understand.
We watched people gather at the Western Wall as Shabbat began...so interesting to see the square go from fairly empty to jam-packed, and observe how differently various groups and individuals conducted themselves. Some were rocking and praying silently, while others sang and danced in circles. I felt zero spiritual significance while at the Wall, except sadness that those who are so strictly observant of religious traditions don't know the Messiah. And while I was walking along the steps of Christ, I didn't feel any connection other than a new appreciation for how long and uphill the journey was. It's difficult to attach any meaning to a place when it doesn't look the way it would have thousands of years ago. Most disturbing for me was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which covers the area historians think was Golgotha and Christ's tomb - it's so ornate and filled with tourists, absolutely nothing like it would have been back in the day of Christ's death and resurrection. All the nearby shops were crammed with religious trinkets and icons, which made me just want to get away from the commercialism.
The most spiritual moment I experienced in Jerusalem was when we were walking along the city walls and heard some singing. We looked down into a square below us and saw a group of British teens belting out Hebrew worship songs as Shabbat came to an end, then their leader told them a parable and they continued singing with their arms around one another. This was a moment when I did stop literally stop in my tracks and just absorb the moment...the voices raised in unison were so captivating. They don't know the Messiah now, but I pray that one day they will sing to Him.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
A Full Day
Today we took a daytrip to the Carmel region near our university - so much packed into one day! We started out the day Zichron Ya'akov, one of the first areas to be settled by Romanian Jewish immigrants during the First Aliyah ("return to the land") in 1883. The area is now home to Carmel Winery, Israel's largest winery. A Scottish tour guide led our winery tour (great accent!). She not only told us about winemaking process, but also led us through a tasting of five wines. I learned so much! Had no idea that white wine could be made from white, red, or black grapes.
Next we went to a Carmelite Monastery near the location where the prophet Elijah was believed to have had the showdown with the prophets of Baal (1 Kings 18). From there we could overlook the Valley of Jezreel, and in the distance we could see Mount Tabor, where Deborah led the Israelites to victory over Sisera (Judges 4). I always loved that story (Yay for strong women! But boo for guys who don't step it up.) Being here gives me a deeper appreciation for biblical stories I've heard for so many years. So cool!
We also went to a Druze village to learn about their community and do a little shopping. They are an ethnic group with a secretive religion. Some of the Druze are secular and some are religious, and most of their elders today are women. One thousand years ago they "closed" - meaning no one can convert and join their community. They are very discouraged from marrying anyone outside the Druze community or converting to another faith. I wonder how many of them have ever heard the gospel...pray for the Druze.
I also had an answer to prayer today. My research has been coming along very slowly, but our tour guide today happened to be an Orthodox Jewish woman who teaches gender and Jewish law at Bar-Ilan University. How perfect!! She invited me to join her community next Shabbat, and I can interview her and a bunch of other people over the next few weeks. I'm also hoping to interview a few people in Jerusalem, which is where I'm heading this weekend.
I might not have internet for a few days...so until next time...shalom!
Next we went to a Carmelite Monastery near the location where the prophet Elijah was believed to have had the showdown with the prophets of Baal (1 Kings 18). From there we could overlook the Valley of Jezreel, and in the distance we could see Mount Tabor, where Deborah led the Israelites to victory over Sisera (Judges 4). I always loved that story (Yay for strong women! But boo for guys who don't step it up.) Being here gives me a deeper appreciation for biblical stories I've heard for so many years. So cool!
We also went to a Druze village to learn about their community and do a little shopping. They are an ethnic group with a secretive religion. Some of the Druze are secular and some are religious, and most of their elders today are women. One thousand years ago they "closed" - meaning no one can convert and join their community. They are very discouraged from marrying anyone outside the Druze community or converting to another faith. I wonder how many of them have ever heard the gospel...pray for the Druze.
I also had an answer to prayer today. My research has been coming along very slowly, but our tour guide today happened to be an Orthodox Jewish woman who teaches gender and Jewish law at Bar-Ilan University. How perfect!! She invited me to join her community next Shabbat, and I can interview her and a bunch of other people over the next few weeks. I'm also hoping to interview a few people in Jerusalem, which is where I'm heading this weekend.
I might not have internet for a few days...so until next time...shalom!
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Human Dignity of Victims
This morning, my Comparative Criminal Justice class had a lively discussion about whether or not victim impact evidence should be admitted at a sentencing hearing - in other words, should the court be allowed to hear testimony from the victim (or if he is no longer living, the victim's family) about the impact the crime has made? Some argue such testimony is highly prejudicial because it aims to evoke an emotional response and really has nothing to do with the crime itself or the criminal, while others argue it is important for the victim or loved one to share his experiences and have a voice in the proceedings.
It is often difficult for me to come to conclusions on many topics, yet today I actually surprised myself by going against my first instinct. I ended up defending and believing in a position opposite that which I originally started with. I do see validity in both perspectives, but what it comes down to for me is human dignity. By allowing victim impact evidence during the sentencing phase, we are basically asking the judge or jury to make a judgment about the victim's worth to society. Is it fair to give a murderer more time in jail because the person he randomly robbed was a teacher and mother of three children rather than a prostitute? I believe God created all human beings with value and dignity, and we should not judge someone more "worthy" because of what she has accomplished so far or who she is connected to. We all are made in God's image and have potential, whether the world currently considers us "valuable" or not. Moreover, the court's job is not to determine the worth of a victim's life, but to determine a punishment that fits the crime and the criminal. So I therefore think victim impact evidence should be inadmissable during sentencing.
But this is just a very brief sketch of my developing thoughts, and I'm curious about others' opinions on the topic.
And an unrelated random photo for your enjoyment - this is a view of what I often see while walking around campus:
It is often difficult for me to come to conclusions on many topics, yet today I actually surprised myself by going against my first instinct. I ended up defending and believing in a position opposite that which I originally started with. I do see validity in both perspectives, but what it comes down to for me is human dignity. By allowing victim impact evidence during the sentencing phase, we are basically asking the judge or jury to make a judgment about the victim's worth to society. Is it fair to give a murderer more time in jail because the person he randomly robbed was a teacher and mother of three children rather than a prostitute? I believe God created all human beings with value and dignity, and we should not judge someone more "worthy" because of what she has accomplished so far or who she is connected to. We all are made in God's image and have potential, whether the world currently considers us "valuable" or not. Moreover, the court's job is not to determine the worth of a victim's life, but to determine a punishment that fits the crime and the criminal. So I therefore think victim impact evidence should be inadmissable during sentencing.
But this is just a very brief sketch of my developing thoughts, and I'm curious about others' opinions on the topic.
And an unrelated random photo for your enjoyment - this is a view of what I often see while walking around campus:
Monday, July 5, 2010
Reminders of God's sovereignty
One of my classmates has been wearing an arm brace, and today I asked her about it...she was in a car accident nearly four years ago and has had five surgeries since. She's still in a lot of pain, and the saddest thing is that she was a violinist before the accident occurred. Not only was her arm basically shattered, but now she can't play the violin, which was both her career and her passion. I can't imagine what it would be like to go through that.
Earlier this week I was in touch with another friend who was in car accident several years ago, and she's been living with constant back pain ever since. The pain has severely limited her ability to sing and create artwork, which were two of her main pursuits prior to the accident. Hearing about both of these situations reminded me how our lives and ambitions can all be altered in a split second. Truly God holds our very lives in His hands, and we are dependent on his grace for our very breath. And though our trials may be deep, He is deeper still...and His grace is sufficient to bring us through.
For my thoughts are not your thoughts, neither are your ways my ways, declares the LORD. For as the heavens are higher than the earth, so are my ways higher than your ways and my thoughts than your thoughts. - Isaiah 55:8-9
Earlier this week I was in touch with another friend who was in car accident several years ago, and she's been living with constant back pain ever since. The pain has severely limited her ability to sing and create artwork, which were two of her main pursuits prior to the accident. Hearing about both of these situations reminded me how our lives and ambitions can all be altered in a split second. Truly God holds our very lives in His hands, and we are dependent on his grace for our very breath. And though our trials may be deep, He is deeper still...and His grace is sufficient to bring us through.
For my thoughts are not your thoughts, neither are your ways my ways, declares the LORD. For as the heavens are higher than the earth, so are my ways higher than your ways and my thoughts than your thoughts. - Isaiah 55:8-9
Alternative Independence Day
When I arrived here, I certainly didn't imagine spending 4th of July in the German Colony in Haifa, eating a bountiful feast of Middle Eastern food in a restaurant decorated to look like a medieval Arabic house - but that's what I did! My roommates and I went out with a fellow classmate from Bulgaria, and we walked around the quaint street filled with stone houses. At the end of the road are the famous Baha'i Gardens, which are magnificent during the daytime and illuminated at night.
This morning I was blessed to wake up just as the sun was rising - I went to a balcony and since no one was around, I felt the freedom to sing and dance to God. Watching the morning mist roll of the mountain while the wind whipped around me brought such a vivid awareness of His presence. Thankful to start off the week of classes with this reminder of His glory.
Let me hear in the morning of your steadfast love, for in you I trust. Make me to know the way I should go, for to you I lift up my soul. - Psalm 142:8
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Taking a look around
For Shabbat, I went to worship at Kehilat HaCarmel with Laura, a woman I know from Minnesota who happens to be here in Haifa. She left today to volunteer with the IDF (Israeli army). The fellowship was different than any of the Messianic communities I've been to - more like a charismatic church with Hebrew songs and Arabic, Russian, and English translation. They have some neat ministries, including a shelter for refugees from Sudan and Eritrea.
I walked around campus a bit and was stunned by some of the gorgeous views...I kept saying "wow! wow! wow!" Unfortunately my photos only give a tiny glimpse - trust me that it's way better in person.
But the best part of the day was setting out on my own private hike through Mt. Carmel National Park - it is literally just steps away from our campus. What amazing views! Green, mountainous landscape with barely anyone around for miles. Had some excellent time talking with God and just enjoying His beautiful creation. It is so cool seeing the terrain and vegetation of the land of my spiritual heritage. Mt. Carmel is where Elijah challenged Baal's prophets to see whose deity could light the altar with fire - and of course, only the God of Israel showed Himself to be so powerful. Rak ata raui (You alone are worthy)!
I walked around campus a bit and was stunned by some of the gorgeous views...I kept saying "wow! wow! wow!" Unfortunately my photos only give a tiny glimpse - trust me that it's way better in person.
But the best part of the day was setting out on my own private hike through Mt. Carmel National Park - it is literally just steps away from our campus. What amazing views! Green, mountainous landscape with barely anyone around for miles. Had some excellent time talking with God and just enjoying His beautiful creation. It is so cool seeing the terrain and vegetation of the land of my spiritual heritage. Mt. Carmel is where Elijah challenged Baal's prophets to see whose deity could light the altar with fire - and of course, only the God of Israel showed Himself to be so powerful. Rak ata raui (You alone are worthy)!
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Food: One of the universal languages
First mission: shopping for groceries before stores closed for Shabbat (Sabbath) - not much English on the packaging to go by, so I stuck with things like pasta that I know how to cook. Happy to report I already found a cereal I love (see photo). The little package with the cow wrapping is butter!
I managed to stay up all day yesterday despite the jetlag - nearly nodded off when I was trying to push through some reading assignments. I got to meet a lot of fellow students, and they all seem pretty friendly. I stayed up late talking with my American roommates, and I think we'll get along well. We also have two Israeli girls sharing the apartment with us, but I haven't seen much of them yet.
I managed to stay up all day yesterday despite the jetlag - nearly nodded off when I was trying to push through some reading assignments. I got to meet a lot of fellow students, and they all seem pretty friendly. I stayed up late talking with my American roommates, and I think we'll get along well. We also have two Israeli girls sharing the apartment with us, but I haven't seen much of them yet.
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